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I've always used semi-synthetic without any problems.

As for how much oil to use, I suppose that the method of refilling the oil in the frame is much the same as on the XR400. I just fill the frame filler until it gets to the upper markings on the dipstick once the old oil has been drained. I then start the engine & let the oil circulate for about a minute or so. Then, with the bike on level ground I top up until the oil level gets to the middle to upper part of the dipstick marks. Run the engine again for a while longer just to ensure that it's nice & warm, then do a final check.

Some say to add the amount marked on the engine, say 1.5 litres & go ride. But it differs if you change the oil filter or only change the oil. Some change the oil & filter everytime, some change the filter every other oil change.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cheers, thanks for the advice, I'll be doing the oil and filter.

I usually use H-D oil in my BSA Goldie and notice that the XR has a roller main as the Goldie does, I just wondered if I needed the heavy duty oil in the XR to stop the rollers chopping the oil up too much?:thumbup:
 

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Red Blooded Biker
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I don't think Harley oil is necessary on the XR. It'll get a bit hotter than a Harley would, so a worthwhile semi-synth like Hein Gericke or Halfrauds sell would be quite sufficient. I use these oils on my XR, Exup & R1 without any problems, but I use fully-synth on the KTM, if only because that's what is specified by KTM.
 

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The other thing I would advise about is to use genuine Honda oil filters...they're much the same price as pattern ones & you then know that they're the better quality. I've had pattern filters come apart in the past & ruin cam bearings, so it was a lesson learned.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yep got a genuine filter, going to flush the frame and pipes while I'm at it as I don't know when it was last done or how the bike has been used.

Thanks for the tip about the filters, though.
 

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There was a bit of a debate about the virtues of using a flushing oil on a bike with the same oil being used on a wet clutch ie.it might affect the clutch plates. The 99.9% view was that the flushing oil shouldn't be necessary if you get the oil hot enough to drain out overnight so's to get the last vestiges of the old oil out.

Others did say that it's better to change the oil sooner rather than later if you don't know the full history of the previous owners servicing habits.

Watch out on the bottom of the front frame downtube. The banjo bolt can twist the flexible pipe when you do it up again after cleaning the oil gauze that's inside of the frame. If it twists it can restrict oil flow & cause oil starvation to the top of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'll watch that, I wasn't going to flush the motor, just the frame and pipes as experiance has shown that sludge can and does build up.

I usually use parafin for this kind of task followed by solvent gun wash to remove the parafin and dry the frame and pipes out.
 

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I wouldn't have thought that it was necessary to go that far. If the oil is hot enough to collect all of the sludge then doing the frame gauze as well as the one under the clutch should be sufficient.
 

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Oil ; 10/40 semi synthetic. 1.9 litre approx. . . . oil + filter change every 1000 miles.

When you remove frame screen filter check for sludge in frame (tooth brush is usefull) in case oil changing has'nt been done often enough.

416cc is spot on with filling procedure.
 
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