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Improved Ignition Map for good 'Good Fuel'

16K views 67 replies 11 participants last post by  snowmad  
Hi,
I am currently ordering a programmable unit from IgniTech.
I asked them to pre-program me with the snowmad recommended values - are they still the best values for the RD07A (I have a 1998)?
Thank you.
Regards, Lukas
 
Hi Dave,
Ignitech had no problem with preinstalling the advance map using the values I borrowed from you and sent them.
It's just the advance curve, the throttle position sensor is out - I don't know if that could have any negative consequences.
Lukas
 
Hi Dave,
I have a throttle position sensor on my carburetors.
If I have a programmed advance curve, the advance is only adjusted by engine speed (RPM).
If the advance map was programmed, the advance would be adjusted by engine speed and by throttle position.
Lukas
 
I contacted igitech yesterday and this is their reply.


Unfortunately Honda TCI with 16pin connector is not available now.
We can offer programmable unit TCIP4 (161.98 EUR) with connector adapter (23.14 EUR). This is plug and play connection. Unit will be preprogrammed for work on your bike. Recommended accessories is USB/COM cable for connection with PC
Hi,
I have this too (TCIP4), Ignitech programmed the advance curve for me according to Snowmad's values and it works.
But their USB/COM cable doesn't work with Windows 11, I had to buy another one to access the unit.
Lukas
 
Hi Lucas, yes i have the TPS on my carbs too but as i have the earlier version of the Ignitech it has no TPS input, but it still runs fine. TPS actually make little difference, perhaps just helping with part throttle and fuel consumption. Dont forget all the pre 7a models and earlier xrv's dont have the TPS either.
Anyhow, if you look at the GUI of the ignition, just look for the TPS under the Sensors tab and make sure the TPS box is selected. Dont alter any of the values (voltages) shown as i think this is pre set.
You can experiment if you like when riding the bike with TPS selected, then un select it and ride again to see if there is any discernible difference, but i doubt if you will notice any difference.
However, you will notice how much smoother the engine runs with the improved ignition map, pulling much stronger in lower RPM and actually from lower rpm. Mine will pull full throttle, top gear from 1500 rpm, but prior to this was unhappy under 3000 !
If you run a percentage of Ethanol in the fuel, then the map can be more advanced than this, but i have no figures, as i stay away from Ethanol (in my xrv) as there are too many problems with it and the engine was not designed to run on Ethanol fuel.
Hi Dave,
I also don't take ethanol fuel unless it's necessary.
I usually use N98 or N100 fuel with max. 10% ETBE.
Lukas
 
Thanks for that. The whole set up with delivery to the UK is about ÂŁ250 now. Still worth it ???

Also, where did you get your USB/COM cable from ? I have windows 11.

Cheers, Ted
Hi,
Snowmad claims it's worth it.
I only managed to ride it for a short time before winter and I think it's true, it rides better.
I haven't bought a cable yet.
I couldn't access the unit with the Ignitech cable, so I asked an IT technician friend for help.
He had a different cable and it worked without any problems.
I'm looking forward to better weather when I can ride the bike properly.
Lukas
 
Hello friends,
I would like to ask if anyone can advise me.
I installed an Arrow exhaust tip (muffler only) on my XRV750RD07A 1998, DB killer left on, airbox without modifications and paper air filter.
I have a problem with idle adjustment, the speed is unstable.
Does anyone have a similar configuration - how much do you have the mixture screws on the carburetors set to?
Thanks.
L.
 
Hi Lucas, the first thing to check is that you dont have air leaks from the rubbers from engine to carbs. The clamps can bottom out as the rubber ages, so they dont tighten properly. I had to modify mind so they clamped, but you can use a thin hose clamp. An easy way to check for air leaks, is with the engine idling ( as best you can!) spray all around the rubbers with brake cleaner or WD40 or similar. If air is leaking in, the idle RPM should change, usually rising. If all is ok, then next check the choke plungers are sealing ok, this allows extra fuel into the air. Again with the engine idling, slightly pull the choke lever to see if the engine note /rpm changes. If it does, then the plungers are likely sealing ok, but a good idea to physically check them. If all these checks are ok, then a carb strip check and clean is required.
Hi,
almost everything is checked or new.
I will still focus on the tightness of the intake manifolds from the carburetors to the engine.
But the engine runs almost well when the idle mixture screws are unscrewed above 4 turns (4 and 1/4 to 4 and 1/2) - there is no shooting in the exhaust, the engine speed almost does not fluctuate anymore.
L.