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Another Heated Grip Problem

6.9K views 19 replies 8 participants last post by  Boris  
#1 ·
Well I'm guessing those of us who have heated grips are turning them on right now (figurativley speaking)
Well I discovered yesturday (on a cold and wet and windy Exmoor) that my Oxford Heated grips little red 'your on and gonna be warm soon' light comes on, but the warmy goodness fails to follow.:confused:
I know it has a little wobble as on occasion the light flickers and goes, needing coaxing to reappear, but even after 10 mins of illumination- no heat is forthcoming (I double checked tonight thinking maybe my gloves were too think, so pulled into a layby and tried it in the buff so to speak, even with no gloves after 10 mins zero heat.
I'm not of an electronic bent, so any responses in real simple terms (I usually opt for a hammer as weapon (I mean tool) of choice.
It's fair nippy out there so any speedy responses most welcome:toothy6:
 
#2 ·
Well I'm guessing those of us who have heated grips are turning them on right now (figurativley speaking)
Well I discovered yesturday (on a cold and wet and windy Exmoor) that my Oxford Heated grips little red 'your on and gonna be warm soon' light comes on, but the warmy goodness fails to follow.:confused:
I know it has a little wobble as on occasion the light flickers and goes, needing coaxing to reappear, but even after 10 mins of illumination- no heat is forthcoming (I double checked tonight thinking maybe my gloves were too think, so pulled into a layby and tried it in the buff so to speak, even with no gloves after 10 mins zero heat.
I'm not of an electronic bent, so any responses in real simple terms (I usually opt for a hammer as weapon (I mean tool) of choice.
It's fair nippy out there so any speedy responses most welcome:toothy6:
If you have power on the temperature controller but no output to the grips can only assume the switch/ temperature controller is faulty and i'm assuming that you've checked the connections to each grip. Highly unlikely that the elements on both grips would pack up at the same time.

Anybody else got any suggestion's???????
 
#4 ·
Thanks guys, will check again in the morning, the led is on the temp controller (tried in all positions for many minutes and nowt comin out) I was thinking that if the light is powered then the fault is on the power going out and to the grips (of which niether show any life) They worked last time I tried them a few weeks ago, but nothing this w'end.
It was shocking weather, and the connectors are a little exposed (previous owner) I did silicone spray a while a go, so I think if I can get them working I will either relocate them or do a much better job of weatherproofing.
I keep you informed:toothy1:
 
#5 ·
Either the connectors are broken, as in not mating properly, or the controller is faulty. If they are Oxford Grips you can buy the controllers separately and you can get the Dial type controller as they are interchangeable.
 
#6 ·
All connectors seem fine and clean and firm, the main power lead was bent back tightly on itself just after the inline fuse and looks a bit floppy, but there is power futher down the line at the controller (light shine-if a little dim) but nothing coming out (power / def no heat)
I took the bottom off the controller as rather too much of a circuit board for my liking)
Q- is the dodgy bent power lead to blame? is it poss that not enough power (dim light) to heat the grips, or crap controller is at the end of its life (and if so if it a jump onto the Oxford Website)
Thanks in advance:thumbup:
 
#7 ·
Try a bulb or multimeter on the feeds to the grips to see if power is getting to them, try the same on the feed form the battery to check if all the power is getting through.
 
#8 ·
yeh
as stumpy says check the power output voltage from both battery and from unit to handel bars , it should all be a healthy +12.5v or higher;) but may be controller getting a signal back from bars that all is warm when its not then you`ll ned a replacement.

I fill the connectors that exposed with vaseline in winter after spraying with ACF, keeps the water/salt and humidity out a treat.

If you can get some cheap the shrink plastic tubing thats heated with a hairdryer to form a tight seal is good.
 
#9 ·
Thanks again, a basic q testing the power, power the grips (best I can considering the post) and mulitmeter down both side of the connecters? (we didn't study electronics at my school) I'm not likely to do anything drastic If I probe the wrong bit when it's all turned on (shall I put my wellies on:)) I'd rather be insulted and get it right than bluff it and get a shock, so any basic mulitimeter hints appreciated.
 
#11 ·
partly right stumps:rolleyes:

make shure the probs are in the correct position on the meter [choice of 3] and 12v correct amperage chosen.

Shack have a search on the net under " how to use a multimeter" worked for me , and basically your only channeling the current through the meter which is fused to get a reading. Try it out on a battery from a tourch etc once you get the hand of these things they are great for all sorts things.

But you cant tell when the "sunday roast is done":p
 
#12 ·
I have had problems like this with my Oxford grips over the years. Its either been the switch gone or bad connections. This is what I have learned....

The oxford grips with the LED switch won't switch on unless there is enough voltage inbound, so it doesn't sound like that is your problem. Sounds more like the outbound current
(a) isn't getting out the switch (replace the switch), (this would be my odds on favourite as the cause - I am on my 4th switch now)
(b) isn't getting past the connectors (clean/repair them)
(c) the grips are knackered (replace them)

To check (a) get you multi meter and shove the probes into each of the terminals of the connector at the end of the wires from the switch. There are 2 of these wires,one for each grip, so you need to check each one. Switch on the grips to the 100% (red led) and you should have 12v or more. If not swap the probes round in the connector. Still no current, then replace the switch (or try and borrow one to try first)

If (a) is OK you need to confirm the connections are good. Either need to get more creative with the probes, or dismantle the 2 pin plugs. So, reconnect the grips up and if you look at the connector between switch and each grip on the grip side you should be able to push a probe in to touch the grip side of the connector. Same voltage as before? If yes then its the grips themselves. If not, ie significantly less or no voltage then you need to clean the connectors: you can try dousing with WD40, or better you can pull them apart.

If you look inside the 2 pin connectors, one side will be a small round female connector, the other a small bullet. They will be mucky with verdigris, salt and road muck and possibly stretched/compressed so the connection is poor. These connectors are held into the plastic connector with 2 small barbs which can be released by pushing a small screw driver or other small pointy thing into the back of the connector, wiggle it round the back of the connector to flatten the barbs and gently pull the wire. It should come loose and at least on of the barbs will be flattened. Now give the metal parts a good rub with emery, sandpaper or what ever you have as well opening up the male ends and compressing the female ends slightly. Finally open up the barbs again and gently push back in to the plastic connector - it doesn't matter which way round as long its a pair of female and and pair of male ends into each side.

Still not working? Repeat the voltage checks but it is probably the grips or a break in the wire to the grips.

Good luck, they are ace when they work.
 
#13 ·
crumbs guys, thanks for all the info, I may need to read them all a few times and slowly digest.
I had a little fiddle first thing this morning (I work pm and eve's) and I've found that they little led is really bright and the grips heat up when the clutch is dipped! but can't see how any stress is being applied to any of the wires (sometimes I had to pull the clutch in and lift the lever a little to keep the light on strong) so not sure what/ how or why but quietly optimistic:toothy2:

The power is being taken from the fuse box, but the solder job doesn't look the greatest, any thing I could bodge to strengthen the connection (without access to ready power or indeed and solder! I guess I could use one of those jet lighters to remelt the solder and hope it gloops in a fuller connection, or is that tempting fate:angel2:
Cheers again.
 
#15 ·
Yes it will Stumpy, well, mine does! It just shows a minus in the top left(polarity error) ! :thumbup:

I'd personally rewire the whole set up, good grief, how long could it take? Worst part is fitting the grips and the switch! Find a good live, make sure you have a good earth, re-wire and if problem persists replace! Simples!
 
#17 ·
Ha ha! Better to get insulated than insulted! At least with wellies on you'll not get pluracy!

No, won't matter if you probe the wrong wire, just be a bad reading!
 
#18 ·
cheers again guys, a job for tomorrow me thinks.
The earth (off the top of my head) is the handlebar retaining bolt, I'll rummage and keep you all informed.
 
#20 ·
repositioned the earth and had no probs since:thumb:
Thanks as ever.
I'm not surprised. The bars themselves are rarely earthed and often the only route to earth is through the grease filled bearings and the clutch and choke cables.
 
#19 ·
repositioned the earth and had no probs since:thumb:
Thanks as ever.