First off what you need is a 'C' spanner and if the shock is adjustable there may well have been one in the tool kit. This may sound a silly observation but are they annular rings rather than threads? in which case the locking rings will not undo. Some OEM shocks are not adjustable at all let alone take them apart. There's a lot of stored energy in these springs which can result in serious injury. Is there something else that's seized which is making the suspension stiff?.

 

You should, as you say, try the normal direction for the locking ring, anti-clockwise (looking down on the shock). Once it's loose you can spin it out of your way with just finger pressure and adjust the main shock.

I'm assuming you've got the rear wheel in the air, i.e. centrestand or paddock stand to take a bit of pressure off the shock spring.

 

these are adjustable but get yourself a "C" spanner as mentioned. when your tapping it with a rod all your efforts are being absorbed by the spring.
i have the spanner after struggling before, makes light work for a couple of quid.
C Spanner-Rear Shock Adjusting Tools -3 piece set | eBay UK
or search shock adjusting spanner for others

 

A decent C-spanner would be a good start.

However, I too have used a drift and hammer to dislodge the lock-ring. I suggest getting a good purchase on the ring, with your rod as close to parallel to the surface of the shock as possible. This will transfer the most energy possible to torsion of the ring on the thread. Then give it a healthy knock. Not just a light tap, but not a massive whack, either. Use your judgement: you don't want to absolutely screw the lock ring.

But as I said, a good-fitting C-spanner would ensure all your energies are put into turning the nut, not denting the lock-ring.

As for the direction, it should be standard direction: anti-clockwise, but look at the direction of the thread if in doubt.

Good luck!

 

Not much to add other than use a soft drift such as a bit of aluminium bar or wood. Will 'mould' to the shape of what you're hitting and less likely to cause damage.

 

Thanks for all those suggestions, I think a proper spanner is the way to go then, dont want to do any damage.
Its good to know its definatly adjustable too. \its way too hard over potholes and this is transfered thru the bike into my back. Ouch...

 

Bigger Hammer :thumbup:

 

Just a thought, totally agree with using a C spanner for adjustment, but think you will find that "winding up" the adjusters won't soften the ride, adustment on the spring is pre-load and alters the geometry of the ride not the "softness"

 

I always thought adjusting the pre-load did adjust the way the shock responded. If the pre-load is "tightened", ie the spring is squashed up a bit then it takes more force to make it move, the effect being the ride feels hard and vice versa if the pre-load is loosened. I cant remember the engineering term but its coz if it take "X" amount of force to move a spring, say the first inch then it takes 2 times X to move it the second inch; 4 times X to move the 3rd inch and so on. By preloading it an inch you have already put in X amount of force already. I am happy to be wrong on this but that's how I always understood it but would like to know why I am wrong if I am. It also of course gets more and complicated with dampers, and the construction and geometry of the swingarm/shock mount etc that magnify or minimise the movement.

 

I think Austin is right there, the terminology escapes me.
Just need to soften the bumps out a bit as it feels quite hard over manholes that are depressed into the road etc. Not too bothered about the effects of high speeds over 70mph, just that, well I want it softer.
may be I should attach an armchair?

 

The ring is used for limiting static sag and has nothing to do with hardening the bike up or softening it. To do that you need a spring with the correct Nm rating for your weight and riding type and then you can adjust your riding by adjusting the compression and rebound adjusters on the shock

 

Suspension Tuning:* Preload

may demistify this dark art

Chassis Setup

the first link is more sports bike ( less suspension travel than AT etc. )

this one is more applicable

 

As mentioned above, the main obvious change when adjusting the spring physically up and down will be the height of the bike. I adjusted my AT shock "down"... shortened the spring.... which raised the height of the bike... i noticed "some" change in its damping, but not as much as i would have expected.

 

being a short ar5e i adjusted mine up

the suspension is quite hard on the rd03/4 anway as they have 100lb spring rates while the 07 has 70 I recall