I'm not familiar with the gammatronix indicator but the voltages look okay. I'd wire it up to a substantial switched ignition feed rather than the sidelight though as you're likely to get voltage drops in the system and maybe a false reading. As long as you haven't got loose connections that should be fine. If it's overcharging, they often get past 15v up to 17v so those values look pretty normal for a shunt type regulator/rectifier.

 

Thanks Alan,

Lutin advised me yesterday to take the through the sidelight. What feed is more substantial that you would recommend I use?

cheers

 

I don't have a wiring diagram to hand but you want to take it from a switched 12v feed somewhere. At a push you could take it off the front brake switch 12v feed inside the loom (black wire). For the earth, tap into an earth (green) or bolt it to a good chassis earth. Picking the brake light feed should mean there is very little other load on the wire and you should get a better indication of the actual battery/charging state with the lights on or off.

On my TA, I've got a relay by my headlights that takes a 12v feed direct of the battery (via a fuse). I use the a black 12v switched feed off the back of the instruments to power the relay. The permanent 12v side goes to my power socket so I can use it for charging too, and the switched feed is used to power the hotgrips and also feeds my LED charge indicator.

 

Alan, heres a scan of the wiring diagram, can you circle which would be the best feed to take from

cheers again

 

I dont know if this helps but I took the feed for my charging diode/light from the sidestand light feed on the instrument panel and it works fine......There is a connector plug inside the rubber cover at the front LHS of the fairing just below the screen.

 

That'll do nicely - it's the black wire. It also appears in the trip meter connector if you're tapping in around there.

 

Wherever is easiest is the answer - as long as it's a switched 12v feed. My choices would be the black wire that comes off 15A fuse C, the black with red tracer coming off 10A fuse D or, as a last resort, the white with green tracer coming off fuse B. The aim is to get the connection as close to the battery as possible so it's not affected by voltage drop across any corroded connectors.

 

You will get no indication with the lights off as you have taken the feed from the sidelight supply (Brown wire) as I suggested. Alan's correct in saying that if you want an indication all the time, then the switched live to use is Black - my mistake, sorry.

Is this the device that you are using? Not sure what you mean about "fixed green and red" (though you also mention "red and yellow light fixed"). How many indicators are there?

 

Yes mine is almost identical to that, sorry meant to say fixed yellow and red, but there's no mention of that either unless it's flashing, which it isn't

 

Thanks, I'll swap the live feed to the black 12v feed and leave the earth feed where it is

Cheers for the input everyone

 

Cool all done and the bulb is green at all times except when the lights are on, then it changes from green to red/yellow intermittently.

So putting that together with the fact that I have just boiled a battery, looks like I have a slight overcharge problem.


So new rectifier it is as this one is a second hand one I threw on 3 years ago.

Anyone know where I can get a MOSFET rectifiet in uk or Europe as Spain heavily taxes imported stuff from outside the EU

Cheers again everyone for your input

 

The voltages really don't look high enough to boil a battery. I'd say they look pretty healthy.

Have you tried this: http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

 

Not yet, that is on my list to do before buying the rectifier

 

Alan,

I have posted my readings from the multimeter and according to the chart my charging circuit is fine. I never get to test the rectifier as the first question is whats the revs at 2500 and mine is 14.30 so it then says rev to 5k and as mine is lower than 14.8 it says charging circuit fine.

it doesn't say anything about lights being on or off and my gammatronix bulb is throwing the error when I have the lights on.

Should I test using this diagram with the lights on?

Cheers

 

I never get to test the rectifier as the first question is whats the revs at 2500 and mine is 14.30 so it then says rev to 5k and as mine is lower than 14.8 it says charging circuit fine.

Then it is fine and agrees with me saying your voltages are fine. If you're worried about overcharging, it's more likely to overcharge with the lights off so i think you've just proved it is not overcharging. You could try the test again with the lights on. It's obviously down on charging power with the lights on but down on power is not going to boil a battery and in all honesty, the figures don't look unusual. A MOSFET r/r will give you higher output at tickover and low RPM with the lights on but as long as you're not just sitting there at tickover for hours, you're not going to get a flat battery on those figures.

Always believe a good multimeter over a charging indicator. A charging indicator LED is only a guide.