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Charging system problem

7.1K views 31 replies 7 participants last post by  T ALP  
#1 · (Edited)
I've been having an ongoing issue with the charging system on my transalp 650.
Have replaced the reg/rec and has a newish battery but doesn't seem to hold its charge very well. It will start most of the time and on long runs goes fine, but my commute is short and after a week or two it ends up draining the battery eventually.

I'm thinking dodgy alternator/generator?
is there an easy way to check this?
I'm getting 14-15 volts on the battery terminals when running.

edit: maybe the battery is discharging slowly overnight or something?
might check this later.
 
#2 ·
(QUOTE)I'm thinking dodgy alternator/generator?
is there an easy way to check this?
I'm getting 14-15 volts on the battery terminals when running.

edit: maybe the battery is discharging slowly overnight or something?
might check this later.

I would'nt think the charging system is at fault here if you are getting that voltage, maybe you have something earthing out somewhere?
or just how short is your commute.

Electrics are not my best thing so hopefully someone else can provide better info. hope you can sort it ------- Chris
 
#6 ·
(QUOTE)I have been walking a lot recently

GOOD MAN! don't know if you ride a cycle but if its safe enough traffic wise to do it where you are you will be amazed how much ground you can cover on one, and how much better you can feel for doing it. -- Chris

PS its just that safety factor of riding a cycle on todays roads.
 
#8 ·
You do not mention if your lights are always on, if they are then a short commute will not replace the charge taken out starting the bike.
I had a few problems with another bike with short commutes and so has one of the officials at work.
He has to recharge his battery about once a week.
I also got very bad fuel consumption due to the engine still being relatively cold.
 
#12 ·
The stopping and starting with the lights on is not an issue. The bike doesn't drain the battery starting it unless it takes ages to start. I presume it starts almost immediately like most alps. I have had to stop and start mine dozens and dozens of times while out laning and I never have a problem. It sounds like a battery problem,either the full charge is not actually getting to the battery or it's not staying there or getting out of it,if your getting over 14 volts at the terminals it's obviously getting there so must be a keeping it/releasing it problem. How's the voltage from the battery when the engine is not running and ignition off and how is it when ignition on? How old is it and does it have the right ampage to be right for the bike?
It could be numerous things. I would start by checking and cleaning all the earth leads,the ones on the engine,the frame and the battery,then the positive conections,the reg connectors and the main fuse and fuse connectors,you'd be amazed how a dodgy/dirty/corroded connector can affect the performance of a battery or a bike in the whole.
Does the bike have any accessories that could be draining it overnight,like sat nav,power outlet or starcom/autocom etc, worth disconnecting and see if they are the problem.
 
#13 ·
It starts on the second turn normally, i just checked the battery voltage with engine off and its about 12.9 which indicates it's properly charged
I have two batteries, one old and one new, same type honda-Yuasa YZT12S MF
both batteries seem to behave the same.
I also just checked for any current flow from the battery with the ignition off, but that was ok as well.
I've not had a problem when on long rides or within a few days of long rides.
It has heated grips, a 12v socket and a fog/tail light but will run fine with all these going.
 
#14 ·
I'll stick a meter across it when you pop up and check the reg as well,probably something simple.
 
#17 ·
Stick an ammeter between the earth lead and the battery, with the ignition off anything more than the tiniest discharge associated with the clock indicates something is short circuiting somewhere. Don't start the bike like this though - it will probaly blow the ammeter.

For checks on reg/rec and alternator have a search on the AT and Vara forums. You should find a couple of links to web sites that tells you exactly what to measure where on most jap bikes.
 
#18 ·
Stick an ammeter between the earth lead and the battery, with the ignition off anything more than the tiniest discharge associated with the clock indicates something is short circuiting somewhere. Don't start the bike like this though - it will probaly blow the ammeter.
Done that already, no current in the circuit at all.
 
#19 ·
Check the earth lead and earthing points, a slight amount of corrosion could reduce the efficiency of the charging circuit.
It is more likely to be some silly little thing than a major component failure.
 
#20 ·
have you replaced the battery since replacing the regulator??? sometimes a knackered regulator will buckle the plates in the battery which will cause discharge.
 
#24 ·
Update !

So i have just checked both batteries, the one not in the bike seems to be holding charge perfectly well.

The other seemed ok when i checked it this morning as well, but then i ran the bike for a few minutes and it gained 0.20 V.

will have a good look at the wiring when i get a chance, but it seems like something on the bike is draining the battery.
 
#26 ·
Ok so i've been monitoring voltages and it seems that if i ride the bike every day it's fine. But if i don't go anywhere for a day or so it struggles to start.
So something is obviously slowly (i checked for any current) draining the battery while the ignition is off.

I'm thinking the easy solution to this might be to fit some kind of isolating switch on the battery. This could also act as an extra immobiliser as well.

Anyone have any experience with this? what is the best way to install it and where should the switch go? etc.
 
#28 ·
Ok so i've been monitoring voltages and it seems that if i ride the bike every day it's fine. But if i don't go anywhere for a day or so it struggles to start.
So something is obviously slowly (i checked for any current) draining the battery while the ignition is off.

I'm thinking the easy solution to this might be to fit some kind of isolating switch on the battery. This could also act as an extra immobiliser as well.

Anyone have any experience with this? what is the best way to install it and where should the switch go? etc.

Strange one this, you would think the ammeter to earth check would show the slightest drain. Or could it be a make/break drain somewhere as when the bike is moved or handle bars turned.

Still think the best way to check the battery might be the voltage drop test at a shop, fully charged to flat straight off, I think it will give a better indication of the kind of condition its in.

Instead of using a isolator switch in the past (as they used to be expensive, no idea what they cost these days) ) I have used heavy duty spade connectors, just pushing them together. ------ Chris